Olympic Peninsula Day 1: Dungeness Spit, Hurricane Ridge, Marymere Falls

Planned day 1 route (from cachetur.no)
Start7 Cedars Casino
Points of interestDungeness Wildlife Refuge
Dungeness Spit
Port Angeles
Hurricane Ridge
Marymere Falls
Lake Crescent
Eating and drinkingBreakfast: 7 Cedars Longhouse Market & Deli (Blyn)
Groceries: Country Aire Natural Foods (Port Angeles)
EndNational Forest road dispersed camping along Sol Duc River

Our first full day on the Olympic Peninsula in Ody! Today’s itinerary:

Blyn to Sequim

First stop today (after refueling Ody and ourselves) was the Dungeness Spit and Wildlife Refuge in Sequim.

Guided by a geocache, we opted for the more scenic route rather than staying along Hwy 101. This also allowed us to detour to the Sequim-Dungeness Valley Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center where we could view a replica of the Dungeness Spit lighthouse. Although closed when we arrived, we were able to claim the smiley and see the replica, complete with its warning sign that the hike was 5 miles each way. As we were not prepared to dedicate the vast majority of our day to hiking out to the lighthouse (also, dogs are not permitted on the trail), it was our one opportunity to “see” it today.

We then followed some back roads past lavender farms and residential communities before arriving at the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge.

Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge

After following a bit of a windy road (make sure you use Voice of America Road where it meets Lotzgesell Road) and passing the campground, we arrived at parking for the Dungeness Spit. Crowds were light and parking plentiful. We gave the dogs a little freedom and time to stretch their legs. There are some horse trails that permit dogs, but most trails prohibit pets.

It seems that they’re putting in new restrooms, which have either entirely or temporarily blocked the trail that connects to the Dungeness Spit trail. Instead, you need to walk through the parking lot to access the trail. Information boards greet you to explain the refuge, the flora and fauna, the spit, and the need to consult tide tables before starting the hike out to the lighthouse.

We followed the paved trail down to the Spit and found the walk through the woods peaceful, filled with birds chirping.

We wandered onto the Spit to take in the views, finding the bluffs particularly beautiful and awe-inspiring with the Olympic Mountains towering over them in the distance.

For the walk back to the parking lot, opted for the primitive trail. Unfortunately, I forgot to turn the watch on until we were underway, but I’d estimate the round trip walk to be just around 2 miles. Highly recommend!

Port Angeles

From Port Angeles, the largest city on the Olympic Peninsula, you look north and enjoy the views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, potentially spying Victoria and Vancouver Island on a clear day. Looking south, the towering Olympic Mountains stand in stark contrast to the coast. Port Angeles is also home to the Ediz Hook, a natural spit extending into the Strait of Juan de Fuca, that is mostly accessible by car. save for the end of the spit, which is home to the Coast Guard and closed to visitors.

We tentatively considered visiting the Hook having previously been here, but eyeing the clock, we opted against the detour, leaving it for another outing. On our way to Hurricane Ridge, we stopped by the highly recommended Country Aire Natural Foods to grab some lunch and other supplies. We will definitely be back as the salads and sandwiches from the deli counter are top notch and huge portions.

Hurricane Ridge

It was finally time to head into the Park, entering through the Hurricane Ridge Entrance Station. Our prior visit was solely to the main visitor center because we did not yet have chains, which were required to go up Hurricane Ridge Road. We drove through the entrance station giddy with excitement at the views we were about to see. And, they did not disappoint!

Blessed with a beautiful late spring/early summer day, the snow-capped mountains stood out against the bright blue sky, with minimal clouds providing additional texture and movement to the view. The temporary visitor center (a trailer set alongside the parking lot due to the devastating fire that claimed the historic visitor center in May 2023) was, unfortunately, closed. However, park rangers were not restricting traffic, and though busy, there were plenty of spots to park and walk around.

We had hoped to walk the Cirque Rim trail, but it was still snow-covered, hiding the actual route while presenting some precarious traverses. We back-tracked and followed the paved and mostly cleared trails closer to the parking lot. It seemed to provide a good balance of giving us a taste of Hurricane Ridge while not absorbing too much of the day, allowing us to make it to the main visitor center before closing and still complete our day with Marymere Falls and Lake Crescent.

Marymere Falls

After leaving Hurricane Ridge, we drove about an hour to the Marymere Falls trailhead, which starts near the Storm King Ranger Station on the shores of Lake Crescent. The 1.8 mile roundtrip trail crosses under Hwy 101 before wending its way through an old growth forest.

At the half-mile mark, there is an optional turn-off to Mount Storm King. We came across this hike during our research but realized that we likely would not have the time or inclination for a 4 mile roundtrip hike that included over 2,000 feet of elevation gain at the end of the day. We, in fact, decided to pass on the hike this time around, but it is on our list for a future trip.

Just shy of a mile into the hike, we arrived at Marymere Falls. We did have to work for that final bit (recommend going up counterclockwise). The dry spring we experienced was noticeable at the falls – with lower water output. After enjoying the views and the surrounding forest, we returned back to the trailhead

Lake Crescent

Another advantage to the Marymere Falls hike is that you start at Lake Crescent, which is just gorgeous. We took note of it on our way to the Falls with the commitment to take it in on the way back to Ody and the dogs. We took the short detour to the lake’s edge and enjoyed its beauty and the quiet.

End of the day

The only thing left for the day was the 30 minute-ish drive to the National Forest Road along which we planned to find a dispersed camping site. It did not disappoint. The road itself was paved! and in good condition. We noted a bunch of spots along our drive before finding a perfect spot overlooking the Sol Duc River. We heard a couple of cars pass us as we were settling in, but we enjoyed a comfy and quiet night in our spot.

Eating and drinking

Breakfast: 7 Cedars operates the Longhouse, which is a gas station (player’s card gets you a 3 cent/gallon discount), mini-mart, and deli counter with freshly made sandwiches and breakfast treats. It was delicious, and we would definitely stop here again.

Lunch: We stopped at Country Aire Natural Foods in Port Angeles because we heard they had delicious deli salads. We were not aware that it was a full grocery store so spent a little more time (and money) than originally intended. We opted for a freshly-made turkey sandwich and a prepared Mediterranean salad. We purchased some shredded rotisserie chicken to add to the salad. Everything was delicious.

Dinner: Leftover salad and chicken was on the menu, and we supplemented it with a Peak Refuel backpacking meal – specifically, the biscuits and sausage gravy. Wow! This stuff was gooood.

Day 1 post-mortem

The trip is off to a great start, and we’re starting to find a rhythm with Ody and the dogs. Finding shade for the van really is important as it heats up quickly but thank goodness for the air conditioning. Also, despite the refrigerator being seemingly small, it holds A LOT of food. A LOT. It’s deep.

We definitely need just a little more storage – not a ton – but a seat back organizer and maybe an overhead shelf would be ideal. We had our electronics in backpacks that we continued to move between the floor (when in motion) and the GrooveLounge (when parked with dogs in the van).

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